Haute Couture 2018 : “Heritage, we do it together”.
Feminism and feminility, renweal, restoration, sometimes whispered but often shouted out alone.
Creative director, Guillermo Mariotto, scans the maison’s historic archives for the upcoming Couture No Season collection, a marvelous form of storytelling focusing on heritage , but projected towards the future.
Glimpsing the past, interpreting the present and assessing the future.
“I love women. I live and create for them. I refuse to think that they can still be harassed. I endorsed WE DO IT TOGETHER because it’s a non profit association that also deals with male-related issues. I found it compelling. And yet up until now I have always been an outsider! I’m deeply in favour of different forms of protest; petitions such as TIME’S UP and ME TOO. However, I believe the only way to change the cultural paradigm is to stand united, to join forces so that equality becomes the rule rather than the exception.” Said Mariotto. As is the case every season, Mariotto manages to breathe new life into his collection associating it with politically correct statements. His runway show at the Aula Ottogona in the center of Rome, enterprising self-confident women who, today more than ever before, have a greater awareness of their roles in society; their strengths and weaknesses. These are the daughters of all those who fought against gender discrimination and abuse to achieve emancipation. Olympe de Gouges, Mary Wollstonecraft, Emmeline Pankhurst, Simone de Beauvoir and Angela Davis and, in Italy, prominent like Agnese De Donato, Adele Cambria and Giosetta Fioroni, who fought with foils and ink for their ( and our )emancipation.
Dresses featuring large collars, elaborately worked short coats, open work and pleated jackets, woolen and fur knitwear, and pratical, trendy cargo pants, an evergreen of the male guardrobe, which Gattinoni’s creative director likes to blend with more feminine garments which he sprinkles with gold powder. A way of saying farewell to the past imbuing it with holiness.
Evening sees the appearance of skills and velvets, lace fabrics, dresses predominantly embroidered with flowers and geometric patterns or printed with lush vegetation. Here is a woman who must convey her femininity without ever appearing ostentatious or vulgar, or women of different ager or cultures.
Here is Gessica Notaro with her disarming power, Gloria Guida with her charm, Elisabetta Dessy with her elegance, Isabella Albonico with her international beauty and three men in the runway show.
His male model sport Fresh Coats in satin, collars and trimmings, while those worn by his female model are embellished and eclettic.
Designed for liberated women. It’s always a question of Heritage; the preservation of memory, the search for an innovative continuity with the past, the identity of a brand or a fashion label, artistic and cultural nomadism; for years, the mission of Maison Gattinoni.